After spending some time with the Scrambler I started to notice some vague hand numbness which I believed was caused by the relatively tall handlebars. Initially I had the plan to design some adapters to bolt on a 1-1/8" or 28mm tapered motocross style bars, however after some digging online I saw that Ducati was offering their low handlebar set for a ridiculously cheap price so I decided to give it a try.
Time: 30-45 minutes
Parts: Ducati Low Aluminum Handlebar Set, part number: 96280181A
- 3mm allen
- 4mm allen
- 5mm allen
- 6mm allen
- 8mm allen
- 15mm wrench
- 8mm socket
- Hand towel
Step 1: The kit you receive will look like this. Inside the box you should have the handlebar, handlebar clamp, lower handlebar perch, and (4) M8 bolts.
Step 2: Using the 5mm allen wrench, loosen the bolts holding in the handlebar ends far enough to where about 1/4" of thread is exposed. From there you should be able to pull the bar ends out from the end of the bar. Mine were a little stuck, so a light tap with a hammer helped to dislodge the wedged expanding collets.
Step 3: Remove the left hand grip. I did this by inserting an ice pick and giving it a quick shot of WD-40, compressed air would also do the job here. From there you should be able to twist off the grip.
Step 4: Remove the handlebar clamp and the (4) bolts using a 6mm allen wrench. Once you loosen the bolts the handlebar is going to want to fall down onto the tank, so use your free hand to support the bars until all of the bolts are out. From there just fold the handlebars over the front of the headlight and use the hand towel to prevent any scratching.
Step 5: Remove the (2) bolts connecting the lower handlebar perch to the upper triple clamp. For this you will use an 8mm allen wrench from the top side and a 15mm wrench from underneath. You can turn the front wheel to full-lock to gain more room for tool access. Be careful not to lose any of the washers that are located here.
Step 6: Remove the (3) bolts attaching the instrument cluster bezel using a 4mm allen wrench and set it aside. From there you can remove the wiring harness by depressing the little plastic tab (highlighted in the photo) and swinging the retainer arm out of the way.
Step 7: Once you have isolated the lower handlebar perch you will need to transfer over the (3) rubber grommets and aluminum "top hat" washers to the new piece.
Step 8: Install the new lower handlebar perch to the upper triple, and remember to include the smaller washer in between the two pieces. Torque these bolts down to 45 Nm / 33 ft-lbs.
Step 9: Re-connect the instrument cluster harness and attach the cluster bezel using a 4mm allen wrench. Torque to 5 Nm / 44 in-lbs.
Step 10: Install the new handlebar and clamp using the printed "+" markings to properly align the handlebars. This step is a little awkward, but just take your time and you should be just fine. Torque these bolts down to 22 Nm / 16 ft-lbs in a 1-2-3-4-3 sequence as shown on the photo above.
Step 11: Transfer over all of the switches and levers starting from the center and working your way out, again using the "+" markings for alignment. You will need a 3mm socket for the switches, a 5mm socket for the levers, and a 8mm socket to transfer over the throttle tube assembly. Torque switches to 1.5 Nm / 13 in-lbs, mirrors to 25 Nm / 18 ft-lbs, and the throttle tube to 6 Nm / 53 in-lbs.
Step 12: Re-install the left hand grip using compressed air, grip glue, WD-40, or hairspray - whichever is your preferred method. Just make sure you let the adhesive set overnight before riding.
Step 13: Adjust your mirrors and enjoy!
Overview: This was a really affordable kit, I got mine for only $139 from the dealer which really surprised me considering the price for the handlebar alone is around $200. Maybe its a mistake on their part, either way the parts are top notch and the installation process is fairly straightforward. The new bars are dropped around 70mm and I found the new riding position to be a little more comfortable, but to each their own. My only gripe is that the ridiculously long throttle and clutch cables seem to be at their limit here. If you wanted to go any lower you'd almost definitely have to purchase shorter cables, which would be a major pain in the ass. All in all, this gets the BRKT BRKT thumbs up.
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